Sunday, March 23, 2014

Fiji is to dive for

The traditional first anniversary gift that married couples are supposed to give each other is something paper. Chelsia and I put our own twist on the concept this year and decided together that our gift to each other would be paper certifications; more specifically PADI certifications.

As paper as it gets! ;) 

PADI is one of the most broadly recognized scuba diving certifications in the world. With the PADI scuba diving certification, we will be able to dive just about anywhere we go. When you have the travel bug like we do this is very important. It was for this reason, and because it sounded like an awesome new hobby to pick up, that we decided to spend a large portion of our vacation “working” to get what we feel is the best first anniversary gift we could have imagined.

We took the course with an awesome young engaged couple from the UK whose names are Tom and Chrissy. We learned from a fearless dive instructor named Api. The stories that guy told us were the stuff of legend, and I didn’t fully believe him until I saw him in the water on our last dive (more on that later).

It was a four day course that was a lot of fun. The day to day activities of the course went something like this:

Day 1

The first day we spent working on classroom stuff; mainly reading the PADI guide book and taking some quizzes and knowledge review exercises after each one.

In the afternoon we met up with our instructor and our PADI buddies Tom and Chrissy to go over some diving theory over a round of drinks.

Day 2

The second day we did a long pool dive session in the morning. We covered about 5 days’ worth of pool diving in one long session to get it out of the way in one day and move on to the open water dives.

In the afternoon we met up with Api, Tom, and Chrissy to go over some more diving theory over another round of drinks.

Day 3

The third day we did two open water dives then had more theory and had to take some quizzes and a test in the afternoon with our diving crew (you guessed right, over another round of drinks).

The first dive was at the beach where they shot the movie The Blue Lagoon (our hotel has the name and the crystal clear blue water; theirs has the actual filming site and some more crystal clear blue water). I must say it was a pretty epic spot to do our first dive. Going under for the first time was a bit nerve racking, but it wasn't nearly as hard or scary as we thought it would be. It is actually an amazing feeling being down there meters beneath the surface.

The second dive was a straight boat ride out from our hotel at a spot that our dive instructor called Api’s Legend. This was the first dive where we had to jump out of the boat (hold one hand over your mouth and one at the back of your head, then tip backwards!). We did some basic skill stuff here like taking off our masks and putting them back on under water and working with our buddies in simulated situations where one of us runs out of air.

Day 4

The fourth day we did two more open water dives, followed by some paper work and the awarding of our certificates; happy anniversary!!

The first dive of the day was out just passed what they call Honeymoon Island at a site called Wonderland. It was a beautiful dive and we were starting to get more used to being deep underwater at this point.

The second dive of the day was the most beautiful of the four dives. It was at a site called Cabbage Patch. The site was named after the large flowing coral that is shaped like the folds in cabbage. The coral itself was some of the most beautiful I have ever seen, and the ocean life there was magnificent. Along with all of the beautiful fish, we also saw a sting ray swimming along the ocean floor and a sea turtle swim out of the “cabbage” right in front of us. Amazing.

The day after our course was finished we already had another dive set up with our dive master and trainer Api. The four of us had been toying with the idea of doing a shark dive all week, and on Thursday we set it in stone and officially gave Api the confirmation that we would be going.

The shark dive is exactly what it sounds like; a dive with sharks. The difference between the shark dive in Fiji and others all around the world are that the one in Fiji, specifically in the island group we were staying actually, there aren't any cages to keep the sharks away from you.

The day before the shark dive at lunch a gentleman staying at our resort volunteered the information that he had spoken with another girl who did it and she said that she didn't actually feel safe on the dive and implied that the sharks were really aggressive. This got us feeling apprehensive and we were very close to backing out. We lost a lot of sleep the night before the dive worrying about whether or not we should pull out and whether it was worth it. In the end, we decided that it was an opportunity that we just couldn't pass up and we would go for it.

The next morning, we got up and tried to force down as much food as we could at breakfast then headed over to the dive shop at 8:30 am get ready to leave for the dive site. Before we got on the boat we rented a camera and split it with our dive buddy Tom (his fiancé Chrissy ended up backing out of doing the dive). This is how we have the picture and videos that follow.

The shark dive was the most exhilarating and insane thing we have ever done. It started out with a twenty minute boat ride out to the dive site; it felt more like two hours. The water was insanely choppy and we were experiencing our first overcast day in Fiji so the sky and water were a bit darker than usual. The boat was more crowded since there were 7 people going on the dive and 4 guides leading us (including Api), so it was dragging a bit and taking on water.

When we finally got to the site, we all suited up and started getting ready to jump in the water. Right as I was getting ready to jump in the strap holding my foot in my fin broke. They told me to get in and give it a try anyway. It was still usable, but I was apprehensive to keep going without perfect conditions. I figured that I couldn't swim away from a shark if it wanted to eat me whether I had a perfect fin or not so I continued on anyway.

After jumping in the water and pushing my fin on as far as I could I swam over to Chels and we did our buddy check. We were supposed to do it on the boat, but we forgot in all of the commotion. As soon as it was done, we put our masks on and started our descent. The descent felt quicker than any we had done before which was odd since this was our deepest dive yet (down to 22 meters, approximately 70 feet).

As soon as we were all down there we lined up next to a rope so we could all hold on and watch the show. Before we even reached the rope I started seeing sharks swimming around in my peripheral vision.


Api had pulled down a trash can full of dead fish to start attracting the sharks before the rest of us descended, and was just pulling the lid open and starting to feed them when I was able to focus on him and realize what was going on. The other members of the crew were stationed with prods made out of rebar to poke the sharks if they got too close. There was one stationed at each side of the line of people, and one with Api to keep the sharks in line if they got too aggressive. There wasn't anyone behind us, which made us nervous because there were still sharks swimming around behind us. The fact that we were positioned in the middle of the line also made us nervous since we were the furthest on either side from the protection.

I can’t say that I ever felt fully safe down there. I can say that the crew does a great job at working to keep you safe and make sure that nothing goes wrong. There were times when the sharks would turn and start swimming directly at us, then quickly dart in the other direction. There were others when they would swim at us then need to be chased and prodded before turning away.

I mentioned earlier that Api talked a big game when we were training about his underwater antics. I believe him after watching him handle the sharks. There was one instance (actually documented in the video below if you pay close attention) where he pulled a hook out of one of the sharks mouth. The shark then circled around to confront him (probably because it hurt) and he punched it to make it go away. He said it was just thanking him and that he made a new friend. I saw it as a pretty intense moment, and it was just one of many.

The sharks themselves are beautiful and fascinating creatures. There were three types of sharks that we saw down there were Black Tip Reef Sharks, Lemon Sharks, and Bull Sharks. The Bull Sharks were by far the most plentiful and the most dangerous. They are huge creatures (the ones we saw were all between 10 and 15 feet) and extremely aggressive. Chelsia read somewhere that the majority of fatal shark attacks every year are caused by Bull Sharks. There were between 12 and 15 of them swimming around down there with us. It was amazing watching how quickly they change direction and how powerful their jaws are when snapping up food. It was truly a pleasure to watch and something that we will never forget.

That didn't change the fact that I couldn't wait to get out of the water. After about 40 minutes, we ascended back to the surface happily. One of the guides gave Chelsia and me a shark tooth on the way out (not sure if he found it on the ground or if someone ripped it out themselves). We were elated to be back on the boat again within about 10 minutes with our lives and all of our limbs intact. We are so happy that we have that experience in our memories, but I don’t think it’s something that we will ever do again.

-S



Scuba classwork
Before going on our pool dives.
Our dive boat, Tai Maria.
Chels and Api driving the boat.
Me coming up after a practice emergency ascent.
What a place to learn to Scuba.
Our amazing dive instructor, Api.
Our villa from the Tai Maria.



Before the Shark Dive!
Videos of the Shark Dive.

A picture of us from below.
Crazy  big fish.
So happy to be alive!!
Tom, Chrissy, Api, Chels and me

Bula from Fiji!


As soon as the Yasawa Flyer reached  Nacula Island in the Blue Lagoon region of the Yasawa Island chain, a smaller taxi boat came and picked us up and whisked us away to our resort (Blue Lagoon Beach Resort).  The region is actually where they filmed the movie “Blue Lagoon.”

Pictures don’t do this place justice! It’s absolutely breathtaking, soft golden sand and the water was every possible shade of blue. Tripadvisor definitely did us a solid with this pick.

After we were greeted by singing resort workers we were shown to our garden villa where we stayed the first three nights of our stay. The room was spacious, clean and had a lovely outdoor bathroom complete with outdoor shower and toilet. When we arrived, there was a bottle of chilled champagne waiting for us, just perfect! The garden villa had its own hammock, which was great for nights when we wanted to relax and star gaze. Cheesy, I know but it definitely happened. We even saw a shooting star.

The food at the resort was out of this world but lunch was my favorite. Every day you could pick from the a la carte menu and it was just so yummy. It had a good mix of Fijian dishes and some of our favorites from the States as well.  The bar was just as great serving the stereotypical tropical cocktails. Some of our favorites were the pina colada (duh!), shark bites (which is like a long island) and the Nacula Sunset. The bar also had an amazing happy hour!

We also booked a special “romance” type package. It came with upgrade to the Captain’s Lounge on the Yasawa Flyer, hour-long couple’s massage and a private lobster dinner on our porch with champagne. The lobster dinner was delicious and obnoxiously huge. It came with two full lobsters, calamari, grilled fish, Fijian kokoda, and mussels along with salad and dessert. We had the lobster dinner on our front porch and it was so romantic and perfect. The couple’s massage was literally full body all the way from our toes to our scalp. It was as our PADI (more on that later) buddy put it “slimy yet satisfying.”

We never once got bored. The resort offered a plethora of different activities from basket weaving to crab racing to cave exploring to Kava Ceremonies (it tastes just like Samoan Kava)! However, our entire time was spent with the dive shop obtaining our PADI certifcations (more on that in the next blog).  It was equally wonderful lounging around in our hammock as it was staying busy, though.

After three nights we switched our room to a premium beachfront villa. These were fully booked the first three nights of our stay, which is why we were in the garden villa. The beachfront villa came with a hammock on the sand and two reserved loungers. It was out of this world! They had a promotion going when we booked that allowed guests staying four nights or more to get a free lobster dinner so once we were in the beachfront villa we had our second private lobster dinner overlooking the ocean. It was just as fabulous if not better than the first.

We were in the water almost constantly swimming, kayaking, snorkeling or diving. The snorkeling right off of our room was absolutely amazing! There was also a great sand bar that Saul discovered on one of our kayak adventures where we spent some time.

After six nights in paradise we packed our bags and waited for the water taxi to come get us and take us back to the Yasawa Flyer. This was hands down the hardest time I’ve had leaving from a vacation ever. Everything about it was absolute perfection!

Another 4.5 hours on the Yasawa Flyer and we arrived back at Port Denarau. We went to the Hard Rock CafĂ© and overindulged on nachos, burgers, mac n’ cheese and beer because our flight wasn’t until 1:45am and we got pack to the port at 6:00pm. This had been planned since we before we had booked our tickets to Fiji even and was a total necessity. Greasy [sorta] American food. 

We made our way to the airport around 9:00pm with the most amazing taxi driver ever, Naraj, who just had some awesome stories about his life, kids, Fiji and pretty much everything.

By the time we got to the airport a little before 10 we were so exhausted. Every night on Nacula we went to sleep between 9 and 10 so after traveling all day we were ready to go to sleep. We found a corner and knocked out until the Fiji Airways counter opened. Nadi International Aiport is a great airport with all the amenities you can find in a larger airport. We killed some time checking out the Duty Free stores and then found some more benches to catch some shut-eye on.

Our flight finally boarded and we had the whole row to ourselves thanks to the amazing Fiji Airways employee that blocked the window seat out for us. It’s a short flight back to Apia, so we only caught about an hour and a half of sleep. We arrived in Apia at about 5:30am where we caught a transfer back from Faleolo to downtown Apia. We went to McDonalds and got breakfast to kill some time, as our flight from Fagalii back to Pago wasn’t until 12:45pm.  We became pretty anxious and headed to Fagalii prematurely at 8:00am. More time to kill meant more sleeping on airport benches. Fagalii is a TINY airport with about four wooden benches and not much else. People started showing up around 10:30am and after much stress we boarded our plane. We asked the worker at Polynesian Airlines if he could make sure our bags made it on the plane (the airline notoriously leaves bags behind) and he was nice enough to get our luggage on. We landed back in AmSam, tired and with some ridiculous wet suit tan-lines.

After all is said and done, I think Saul and I both agree that Fiji is one of the best if not the best vacation we’ve ever had. Everything about it is beyond perfect (the hospitality and the sheer beauty of the place), we love love loved everything about it.  

-C





Arriving to Nacula Island.
On the taxi boat heading to the resort.
Our garden villa right after we checked in complete with champagne.
Saul's fish and chips for lunch
Decompressing after traveling all day.
Snorkeling pictures! All of this was right off the beach at our hotel. Our underwater camera doesn't do it justice!

Pretty impressive of Saul! Mr. Agile Husband.
Kayaking to the sand bar Saul discovered.
Our tree. We went and took a break on a private beach we found on our way to the sand bar.
The sand bar looking one way.
The sand bar looking the other way.
Our kayak parked.
Yoga swag inspired by Addie :)
Saul's yoga swag also inspired by Addie. :-P
Kind of like an ostrich! ;)
The view from the restaurant.
Fijian Kokoda. Raw fish marinated in citrus. YUM!
My handsome kayaker husband.
Looking back to the resort from our kayak.
Always gotta have the selfies!
The "garden" part of our garden villa. The square bowl type thing was to wash the sand off your feet before entering the room.
The first private lobster dinner we had.
A little friend I made at the restaurant. He was a fisher by day.
Our beachfront villa.
Outdoor shower.
The ceiling of our villa.
Our little puppy friend, Padi. (we named him)
Saul lounging in our hammock.
Just because I have the cutest husband ever.
Our hammock and the beach in front of our villa. When the sun was bright the water was AMAZING!
Check out those wetsuit tan lines. Yesssss.
Saul and Padi! :)
The massage hut was literally a hut. Not much in the way of privacy
Lounge space around the resort.
Lobster dinner part 2.
Hammock lounging after dinner.
Pina Coladas! Nom.
Sunset watching from our hammock.
Not a bad view ;)
Chrissy and I dancing with an employee on Fijian Night.
Saul dancing and our scuba buddy Chrissy.
A shedding gecko that made it's home in our bed.
Self-timer pictures for the win.
Saul did some fishing and caught this little guy.
The staff singing as we left the resort by water taxi.
Captain's Lounge in the Yasawa Flyer.
Leaving Fiji! :(
And finally Saul sleeping at Fagalii Airport in Western Samoa. This picture shows the ENTIRE airport. :)